Is Facial Oil Good or Bad for OILY SKIN?

Facial oils definitely have a bad rep. The word ‘is normally associated with terms like greasy, acne, and dirt. No one says “I’m oily” in a good way. But for my oily-skin types, an oil-based product may be the product your skincare routine is missing, especially as we get into winter here in Australia.

Now is the time to mention a very elephant in the room and the reason you’ve never used an oil: sebum. Despite what you might think, sebum isn’t the evil villain we have labelled it to be. In fact, it helps to keep skin hydrated and helps form the skin barrier to protects against daily aggressors. However, if there is a skin imbalance, the sebaceous glands start producing excess sebum, giving the face a greasy appearance. As sebum builds up, the pores become clogged and enlarged which leads to blemishes, spots, and blackheads. This imbalance can be caused by diet, sleep, exercise, and water intake of course, but it can also be caused by topical products too.

This is where face oils come in. Topical oils aren’t just for dry skin types as using an oil on oily skin can actually be beneficial. If you have oily skin, you’ve probably never used an oil because you think that:

- An oil treatment would surely worsen your oiliness.

- Your skin makes enough natural oils to keep it healthy.

- Oil-free skincare options are better at balancing your skin.

While oily skin may not need to be nourished, it does need to be hydrated! If the skin is stripped of natural oils, it will go into overproduction mode and cause more sebum build-up. So, using an oil can help replenish your skin’s natural oils which can keep oil levels balanced and breakouts at bay. Not convinced? As Dendy Engelman, M.D., dermatologic surgeon, puts it, “Oils help make the skin supple and pliable. Since they are quickly absorbed, they help to reinforce the skin barrier, making it stronger and less vulnerable.”

When your skin is in good health, it acts like an immune-defence barrier that protects against environmental aggressors. You can immediately tell when someone has good healthy skin: it's soft, smooth, supple, and radiant. When moisture levels are optimal, skin is able to cope with everyday factors that could otherwise throw it off balance. However, when skin lacks moisture, it can soon reflect negative lifestyle habits, such as alcohol, smoking, lack of sleep, overly rich or greasy food and other excesses. As a result, irregularities appear. And if you have oily, blemish-prone skin, these irregularities can worsen.

Many studies have found that oily skin tends to be rich in fatty acids, such as oleic acid, and deficient in essential fatty acids (EFAs), such as linoleic acid. If you are confused, like me, the difference between FA and EFA is as follows. Fatty acids are vital for the normal operation of all body systems and the body is capable of synthesising most of the fatty acids it needs. However, there are some fatty acids that the body cannot synthesise, and these are called essential fatty acids. Essential fatty acids must be obtained from food. They fall into two categories: omega-3 and omega-6. SO, recap, oily skin is low in EFA! Additionally, supporting research shows that pre-pubescent complexions have a healthy balance of EFAs, whereas post-pubescent, acne-prone complexions are deficient in EFAs.

Facial oils that work for oily or combination skin are rich in EFAs such as:

o Linoleic acid

o Linolenic acid

o Gamma-linolenic acid

There are several natural oils rich in these EFAs, including:

o Rose-hip (anti-inflammatory)

o Evening primrose

o Hemp seed

o Grape-seed

o Safflower

o Flaxseed

o Borage

For further research on each oil, I found this site: https://www.holistichealthherbalist.com/complete-list-of-comedogenic-oils/#:~:text=A%20comedogenic%20rating%20of%201,%E2%80%9Cpurge%E2%80%9D%20in%20some%20cases.&text=A%20comedogenic%20rating%20of%205,guaranteed%20chance%20of%20breaking%20out.

Each of the oils mentioned is rich in linolates—at over 50% concentration. This ratio makes the oils on this list perfect for oily or combination skin. Using a facial oil high in essential linolates provides the conditioning benefits of an oil while also helping to balance sebum composition, leading to healthier, happier skin

That said, it should be stressed that not all oils should be used on oily skin. Before choosing an oil for oily skin, you must take into account the oil's comedogenic rating (from 0 to 5). If it is 3+ it means it’s more likely to clog pores and can aggravate sebum production, while 0-2 help regulate sebum production and restore the skin's complex balance. For example, jojoba oil has a comedogenic rating of 0 and can be used by all skin types, while coconut oil has a rating of 5, making it highly comedogenic.

How to use

When incorporating a facial oil into your skincare routine, remember that it should always be the last product you apply. Facial oils are thicker than other skincare products which means they can block lighter products such as serums from absorbing.

Also, if this is your first time using an oil here's what I want you to do:

Start off slowly. You should really do this when introducing any new products to allow your skin to get used to them. Start off 1-2 per week and gradually increase to once a day, all depending how your skin settles into the new products

Some recommendations

Oily skin needs a botanical oil that helps to control sebum production and has a purifying action, so it will regulate the skin. Those that are recommended for oily skin are light and fast absorbing, so they don't leave you feeling greasy. I actually found it pretty hard to find oils for oily skin without fragrance but here is the best I could find (all contain natural essential oils). Also, I will put the comedogenic rating (from 0 to 5) beside the ingredients if I can find the rating.

Sunday Riley U.F.O. Ultra-Clarifying Face Oil – 35mls for $122

A key word that people with acne-prone skin should look for on the bottle: “clarifying.”. This hard-working oil great for blemish-prone skin types. Infused with exfoliating salicylic acid 1.5%, this purifying oil not only assist healing and preventing blackheads and breakouts, but also brightens and reduces post-acne discolouration. Does contain neroli essential oil (1) and grapefruit peel oil (0) which are both essential oils, so beware if you react to fragrance.

Kiehl’s Daily Reviving Concentrate – 30ml for $76

A blend of sunflower (0) (skin balancing, hydrating, and anti-bacterial), tamanu (2) (great for healing scars), and ginger root oils make up this product. From reading reviews, it seems to be more like a serum than an oil, which great for anyone who fears that greasy feel. If you don’t react to fragrance this could be a great oil for you (all from essential oils).

Supple Skin Co. Dew Drops (original) - 30mls for $42

Specially formulated for oily & acne prone skin, original Dew Drops aim to reduce excess sebum and prevent breakouts.. It contains hemp seed oil (0), carrot seed oil* (3), lavender oil*(0), neroli oil* (0), and tea tree oil *(0). My cousin loves this brand and raves that it completely fixed her oily skin. Which is why I included it. It also has 5/5 stars with 250 reviews. The brands states that dew drops contains all the nutrients your skin needs on a daily basis to keep your skin plump, healthy & clear without the need for any other products. I’m not sure how I feel about the whole one product fixer but do your own research and see what you think. *essential oils.

Vayda Organics Blemish Relief Oil – 15mls for $34.95

This serum helps to soothe irritated blemishes, kill harmful bacteria, reduce inflammation and acne scarring. Tamanu Oil (0), Jojoba Oil (1), Lavender Essential Oil (0)* and Tea Tree Essential Oil (0)* are the only ingredients. The ingredients are known to help heal, increase cell turn over, and have anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antibacterial and antioxidant properties to reduce acne scarring and prevent acne. *essential oil fragrance.

Botanicals by Luxe Face Oil – 30mls for $52.00

This luxe, antioxidant filled face oil is non-comedogenic, light weight and intensely nourishing for the skin. Contains rosehip oil (Vitamin C), squalane (hydrating and calming), Vitamin E and Cucumber (calm), rose geranium* (balance the skin). *essential oil. All the oils in this product have a comedogenic rating of 0-1, making it a great option for oily skin.

End notes:

I hope this blog post makes you a little less terrified about using an oil and you’ve enjoyed reading so far. Love from Bridie x

P.S. If you are able, I recommend doing a patch test before buying the product of your choice. This is so you can test whether it breaks you out or not.